Then, try to wedge a cutter or sharp knife under the print and wait for the heatbed to cool down. If you encounter issues with removing prints, try to heat up the hotbed to around 70-80C for a minute. This can be a pro or a con for some users. MAnother “issue” is that some prints stick a bit too well to the heatbed. Unfortunately, there is no power cable strain relief installed, so this is one of the first prints i did. Heating to 60c takes ~50 seconds and reaching 100c takes less than 2:30 minutes. To be honest, i can’t understand why this insulator is not used by any 3D printer manufacturer, considering that it helps a lot and the cost to implement it is next to nothing. The silicon heater is insulated with a thick piece of insulation material improving efficiency. Artillery Sidewinder X1 Review 2Īs previously mentioned, the heatbed runs on mains power allowing quick heating and higher temperature. I could not find any uneven spots in my bed, making the leveling a walk in the park with the large leveling knobs present under it. This improves the layer adhesion and even allows PLA prints without heat. On the Sidewinder X1 we get a large 310×310 mm heatbed made from glass that has a textured finish on it. I don’t think the drivers are genuine, but I can’t say I had any issues with them. The mainboard is a MKS Gen L running TMC2100 motor drivers. In the front left of the base, the color touchscreen resides, and on top the SD card and USB outlet. The heatbed runs on mains power (in my case 220V) and it’s powered by the integrated Solid State Relay. The power supply is passive, but considering that it only powers the printer hardware and hotend, it’s more than enough. PLA, ABS, Flexible PLA, TPU, Wood, PVA, HIPS Start the printer and heat the nozzle and heatbed (200C for the hotend and 60c for the heatbed should be fine).Īrtillery Sidewinder X1 specs Specificationsģ00 x 300 x 400mm (11.8 x 11.8 x 15.75in).If the belts are not tight, layer shift can appear.

Check the belt tension for the X and Y axis.The lead screws need to have a bit of space between the motor shafts, for the couplers to attenuate any movement caused by the lead screws being bent or uneven. I needed to raise the Z rods a bit and then tighten the screws from the couplers. Check the flexible motor couplers don’t touch the Z rods.I had an issue with layer shifts on the X axis caused by a loose motor pulley Check the motor pulleys from the X axis and Y axis and make sure the screws are properly tightened.In my case, the extruder wheels where properly tightened. Make sure that the wheels from the extruder are tightened and there is no play when trying to wiggle the extruder assembly.Make sure that the wheels from the heatbed are tightened and there is no play when trying to wiggle the bed.

Simplify 3d not starting at height